Saturday, June 11, 2022

Running in Scandinavia

Copenhagen, Denmark

It's bright daylight at 4:45 AM, so I don't need my headlamp or reflective gear. The sun is just about to rise, but there's no darkness to be found. The days are long up north here, and I think this will be the southernmost point on this trip. A half-mile on, I cross the Copenhagen Port River, to Christianshaven, which I believe is an island lying between Denmark and Sweden. But don't quote me; it's difficult to figure out what's a river, what's an island, what's a canal, etc. The place is almost like Venice, with its canals and waterways of all kinds, all over the place.

Right away, I'm running on trails through the woods, with watery canals nearby and all around. The sun is coming up, and everything is nice and pretty. I wind up on a bike trail through a very strange neighborhood. There are homes that appear to be shacks, but well-maintained shacks. They're close to the bike path, but there are no cars or even roads anywhere nearby. This seems to go on for miles. The only navigational marker I see is the tall church steeple with the swirling, curling wrap-around staircase.

Me, on the trail


The church steeple to navigate by

At some point, I become a little confused. I cross over some of the canals and swamps in an attempt to find my way back. There are more of the shacks, but some have cars now. Eventually, I find the church steeple again, and it's right smack-dab where I thought it would be.

Other than my slow pace and a few moments of uncertainty, it's been a pretty good run. It's always good to explore.


Randers, Denmark

There's a nice dirt trail along the river here. It took a while to find it, but now that I'm on it, it's quite enjoyable. Too bad I don't have more time. And that complaint includes time to clean and dry my running clothes and shoes before we move on later this morning.


Stavanger, Norway

Too bad I (once again) have so little time. At least it's not raining.  I do manage to get around the nearby small lake, and over to the port area. Best part of all? I stay vertical, despite the cobblestones, the bane of my (running) existence. 


Bergen, Norway

I know what you're thinking: he doesn't have enough time to get in a good run. You are incorrect. There is plenty of time here in the Gateway to the Fjords, Norway's second-largest city. But there are other constraints: traveling with wet clothes (after I wash them) and the cold rain. It's pouring, and the temps are in the low 40s. Not my fav conditions.

But I do manage to explore a little. I run around a small lake, and over to the port area. Sounds just like my Stavanger run, but there's more to see here. And I double my mileage from yesterday. But one of these days I need to get a real run in.

Later in the day, I get a real run in. Five miles at a blistering pace! This time, it's in the afternoon from a different hotel in the Bergen area. The run and the distance aren't really remarkable, but I'm happy to do it.


Sognefjord, Norway

I'm locked out! I had left the hotel carrying a piece of scrap paper with the combination to get back in. That's because there is no one on duty during the nighttime (and early morning) hours. The code doesn't seem to work for me, and I struggle with the door until I realize that I have to push, not pull on it.

The run had been nice; all along the Sognefjord Fjord. Very quiet, peaceful, and incredibly scenic. It was quite memorable.


Geiranger, Norway

This place is even more remote than Sognefjord. I leave the village of around 200, heading Northwest on the road along the fjord. Here, the walls are closer and steeper than those near Sognefjord. I reach the somewhat smaller hamlet of Mollsbygda. From here, the road goes up, way up, the mountain above the fjord - it looks like dozens of switchbacks. I turn back toward Geiranger. Once I return, it's time to try the other side of the fjord. Now, going mostly West, I reach the smallest hamlet of all, Homlong. The road ends there, and I turn back once again. This 10K plus run has been the most scenic and the best yet of all my runs here.

Just starting out from Geiranger

Just before Mollsbygda

Oslo, Norway

It's pretty simple to get down to the Harbor - just a hop, skip, and a jump. Not that I have a spring in my step; I don't. I missed my chance to run in Lillehammer yesterday, due to an upper-respiratory infection. I do manage to get out today because I'm feeling better, and because I have some time here in the afternoon, 

After exploring the harbor area, I make my way back up the hill, past the hotel area, and over to the King's Garden. It's a nicely manicured park that Debbie and I had walked through earlier. All-in-all, not a bad return to running after a couple days off.

Oslo Harbor

Stockholm, Sweden

I'm only a half-mile from the hotel, and I'm hopelessly lost in Stockholm's apartment hell. Good thing I don't have much of a time crunch. I always think that if I only run around in circles, I'll find some familiar landmark and remember my way back from there. Nope. I ought to disavow this religious belief. Eventually, I do manage to find an old wooden church that I'd seen before. Hallelujah. 

Anatomy of being  lost in Stockholm

I'm still here.

It wasn't supposed to be this way. I'm supposed to be home, you see. But there's this little rule that says that in order to fly into the U.S. you have to have a negative Covid test. Debbie and I tested positive the other day, so here we are for several more days. We're both feeling well; we just had minor cold symptoms. But now we are close to 100%. Want to know what hurt the most? Walking over to watch the Stockholm Marathon take place yesterday during the time when we were supposed to be flying home. Since I'm stuck here, I could've run the darn thing! But I'd decided not to try; running a marathon is probably not the smartest thing to do when you have Covid. This is also not to mention that I'm hopelessly out of shape.

Today's run through a nearby park and along the waterfront is quite nice though. I'm feeling fine and enjoying the scenery and the sunshine. That's except for the attacking seagull. I am not sure why it doesn't like me, but it takes several strafing runs at my head. Maybe it thinks it is a landing area. I finally determine that it's a Hitcockian Gull. But I survive this ordeal. And now I'm back up to a whole 5 miles again.

On a hill overlooking Stockholm

Whenever I run on an island, I have this strange urge to try to circumnavigate it. It's the same when there's a lake I can get around. As for islands, there are gobs of them that make up the city of Stockholm. The one I'm on is just a little too big - I have considered it, however. Today would be a four-island run day. Those include a tiny one or two, as well as the one I'm staying on and one that could possibly be part of the mainland (but I can't tell). When I get to the fourth and final one, there's nowhere else to go, and it's fairly small, so I do indeed manage to complete an almost-circumnavigation.

Four-Island run in Stockholm

I'm lost in Stockholm once again. This time, I'm well into my ten-mile run, and I hadn't planned to get off of the 3 1/2 mile trail at the southern shore of the island. I'd planned on just running back and forth as much as it took. But hey, a trail led to a park in the Western part of the island, and I took it. It went up, and then round and round, enough to get me completely turned around. By the time I find myself again, I don't need much more for my double digits today. This turns out to be my best run of the trip. So far.

It's my last run in this here town (we both have negative covid tests now, so we get to go home!), and I'm really moving. I actually pass two other runners, and that's something; they've been doing nothing but passing me the entire time I've been here. It's interesting that Swedish runners seem to be really and truly fit. But unlike my running friends back home, they run almost entirely alone. And they're about 75% male, whereas I think it's about 60% female in my part of the world. All in all, the running here has been pretty good. My runs have improved to the point where I feel that I am beginning to approach the level of fitness I was in when I left home three weeks ago. Today's nine were even faster than my last decent ten described above. See you in Ohio. I hope!



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